Sunday, November 4, 2012

Cameras: An Incomplete Introduction


A few days back, a friend asked me for a bit of advice on selecting a new camera as a means to get into the art of photography. In my opinion, it was a question that could not be answered without (obviously!) asking a few questions of my own. I've had similar requests before, and I think it is about time I write down a basic introduction to cameras and related gear, so that I can use it for my own reference, as well as point others to it.

Please note that this article is simply the way I view the different cameras out there and how I would possibly use them. Also note that this is written from an enthusiast photographer's perspective. I'll keep updating this post from time to time. Feel free to point out any corrections. If you have anything to contribute to this post, let me know and I'll consider adding it in.

Some terms used in this article may not make sense unless the reader is acquainted with photography terminology. Questions are more than welcome, ask in the comments section!

So without further ado, let us get started...

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Cameras can be classified into two main groups, Fixed-Lens cameras and Interchangeable-Lens cameras. The former group, as the name implies, have lenses that cannot be detached/changed/replaced, while the latter group enjoys the flexibility of using a variety of lenses for different purposes.

The Fixed-Lens group can be divided into three further groups: Basic Point & Shoot, Bridge/Prosumer and Advanced Compact.

Basic Point & Shoot Cameras

These cameras offer the user the most basic of photo-taking features. Most are small, light, and easily pocketable. Besides a number of effects presets and scene modes, these cameras offer the user few manual options, if any. A few are outfitted with special features, such as water and shock proofing.

P&S cameras are usually equipped with a zoom lens within a 24-150mm (35mm equivalent) range. They may have a minimum focus distance as low as 2cm (5cm seems to be the norm, according to the random camera specs I checked). Prices are usually $65 and above, depending on features.

If you have a decent camera-phone, a Point & Shoot can potentially give you a better lens with optical zoom, but does not offer major image quality improvements (unless you start pixel peeping). I used to be a firm believer in the idea that camera-phones could not match dedicated cameras - until I got an HTC One S. Now my Panasonic Lumix FX150 barely sees any use, unless I need it for some of its special talents.

There is a rather large variety of P&S cameras to choose from. Examples would include the budget Sony Cybershot WX50 and the water-and-shock-proof Olympus Tough TG-1 iHS. There are also other cameras which sit on the fence and may have enough features to stray into the bridge camera or the advanced compact territory (such as the Panasonic Lumix DMC-SZ1 or the Canon Powershot S110).

Bridge (aka Prosumer) Cameras

Bridge (also known as prosumer) cameras occupy the ground between P&S cameras and interchangeable lens systems (hence the name, bridge). They are sized accordingly; most are smaller than traditional DSLRs. Generally, these cameras offer the user more than a fair bit of manual control over exposure (aperture, shutter, ISO), and higher-end models may offer extra customization options and controls.

Bridge cameras usually offer an all-rounder lens with both wide-angle and telephoto features. Some are known as "ultra-zooms" since they are equipped with lenses having a very wide focal length range (optical zoom). To my knowledge, the Canon Powershot SX50 HS currently offers the highest zoom ratio; a 24-1200mm (35mm equivalent) lens, 50X. Such high zoom ratios are achieved by using smaller sensors (the digital equivalent of film) compared to most interchangeable lens systems.

In my opinion, bridge cameras were more relevant in the days when there was little variety among DSLRs (not to mention that they were super expensive). However, with the advent of cheap entry-level DSLRs (and lenses), I would recommend bridge cameras for people not interested in investing in a system and want a camera that can (in general) cater to all occasions.

A few bridge cameras in the market today: Sony Cybershot HX200VPanasonic Lumix LZ20Nikon Coolpix P510.

Advanced Compacts

Of all the fixed lens cameras, advanced compacts are my personal favorite. What makes them so enticing is their (often) larger sensors, abundant manual controls, and, relatively fast lenses, all inside a compact and flat package. Most (if not all) can shoot in a RAW format, which allows for more flexibility and control in the editing process.

Advanced compacts are mostly equipped with a fast zoom lens, such as the Canon Powershot G15 with its (35mm equivalent) 28-140mm f/1.8-2.8 lens. A few specialized cameras have fixed focal length lenses, like the new Sony Cybershot RX1 or the Sigma DP1 Merrill. Some of them are also equipped with a hotshoe for accessories such as flash units or wireless flash triggers.

When looking for an advanced compact, the main feature I would ponder over is the size of the sensor. To give an idea, here's a picture of sensor sizes overlaid, courtesy of Wikipedia. To put things in a bit of a perspective, most P&S and bridge cameras have a 1/2.3" sensor.

Sensor Size Comparison - Courtesy of Wikipedia

Some time ago, the advanced compact category was dominated by the Canon G-Series, with the only other option (as I recall) being one of the Panasonic LX cameras. However, the past couple of years have seen more manufacturers jumping in the fray, so now, there are quite a few options to choose from Some advanced compacts and their sensor sizes (sorted by ascending Sensor Size):

Canon Powershot S110 - 1/1.7"
Canon Powershot G15 - 1/1.7"
Nikon Coolpix P7700 - 1/1.7"
Panasonic Lumix LX7 - 1/1.7"
Olympus XZ-2 iHS - 1/1.7"
Fujifilm X10 - 2/3"
Sony Cybershot RX100 - 1"
Canon Powershot G1X - APS-C
Fujifilm X100 - APS-C
Sigma DP1 Merrill - APS-C
Sony Cybershot RX1 - Full Frame

With the plethora of features available to them, advanced compacts can generally handle most photographic scenarios within the "normal" focal length range. In my opinion, they are best for enthusiasts looking for high-end features in a compact package, or system camera users looking for a backup camera (for those events where you just can't lug around your camera gear!)


DSLRs
(Coming Soon)

Mirrorless Cameras
(Coming Soon)

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Thursday, February 10, 2011

Close-Up & Macro Photography: An Amateur's Perspective - Part I

Ok… So I thought I’d do something different… something different from the usual stale description of routine happenings…
Macro Photography and close-up photography are probably the two most confused-between-each-other terms in the arena of photography… Before going any further, let’s set things straight…

A random search of the term “macro” (in terms of photography) brings up lots of descriptions and definitions; however, to my knowledge, it can be defined as an image produced on a film (or a sensor, in the digital era) such that the size of the image is equal, or larger, than the object being photographed. Nowadays, the word is used by camera and lens makers to denote any lens which focuses at a sufficiently close distance. Note that not every lens with the “macro” label is a true macro lens, since it is (usually) not capable of taking photos according to the definition mentioned above.

The Universally Known Symbol for Macro
Taken from Google Images

The idea of close-up photography is more general; photography of small objects, usually from a close distance. It can be said that macro photography is a subset of close-up photography. When you see this symbol on a camera, it reflects the ability to focus closely, perhaps 5cm or closer.

One might be inclined to say at this point, “Who cares?” I think it is better to understand the difference. Knowing the features and limitations of your equipment is one of the steps which can lead you to use your gear to its maximum potential…

The rest of this article will discuss basic techniques of close-up & macro photography. I will try my best to limit myself to the techniques I myself have used, or have witnessed firsthand. There are loads of people out there way more experienced regarding this topic than myself. Please do not hesitate to correct me, or offer suggestions or improvements…


Using a Cell Phone Camera

Yeah… that was not a typo… using a Cell Phone Camera. Okay… I know, cell phone cameras are usually crappy, the better ones cost a fortune, such a tiny lens… yada, yada, yada… All true… But, the best tool for the job is the one you have with you (To tell you the truth, I don’t use a cell phone camera anymore, but that wasn’t always the case)

Chances are, your phone camera has a “macro” mode, time to use it! Activating this mode will allow your camera to focus closer than it usually does. Careful selection of subjects, along with a bit of patience can yield pretty decent results…

The following pictures were shot by my Sony Ericsson K750i, with the "macro" mode activated… The best part about the K750i (at least in those times) was that it had a fairly accurate auto-focus feature, something not very common in the camera phones in those days, when fixed focus lenses were the norm. Photography with this phone was done at a time when when words like “aperture”, “shutter speed” and “exposure” were still foreign, even unknown, to me... the acronyms DSLR and ISO unheard of...

Here is a photo of some unidentified berry-like things in my garden… They were really tiny, smaller than a one-rupee or a ten-cent coin…

Berry-Like Things. Taken with SE K750i. Un-cropped, Unedited. © Osama Sidat

The next one is a shot of a sort of flower or bud at the center of a random plant… also taken with the phone…

The Furry Flower. Taken with SE K750i. Un-cropped, Unedited. © Osama Sidat

Back then, close-up usually meant plants and flowers... than I discovered that pets as interesting close-up subjects, and more challenging due to their unpredictable nature...

Don't Bother Me. Taken with SE K750i. Un-cropped, Unedited. © Osama Sidat

The next was a covert act... Not easy to go right up into a kitten's face without waking him up...

Peaceful Slumber. Taken with SE K750i. Un-cropped, Unedited. © Osama Sidat

Looking through my old K750i photos, I am actually amazed at the amount of detail coming from a tiny 2MP sensor...

Make no mistake; these are simply close-up images, not true macros. The K750 did not match the quality and flexibility(in terms of control) provided by even the simplest of point & shoots. The point is, it can be done, with decent results.

Nowadays, most quality camera phones advertise quality cameras... as long as they have a sort of focus lock, you can easily achieve something equal or better than the picture seen above… Try it with your phone!

Note: After switching phones a couple of times, I realized my K750i was still better in terms of image quality, especially compared to the Nokia E51 and the Blackberry Curve 8520, both of which have pathetic cameras. The Nokia XpressMusic 5630 (probably old now) has decent quality; played a bit with one. Can't say much about others, feel free to share your experiences...

My "carry piece" has since been "upgraded" to a Panasonic Lumix FX-150, however, I sometimes miss the ease of carry and use of the cellphone as a image-making tool, since one rarely leaves home without it... even to take out the garbage, or check the mailbox...

Hope you like the photos!
Next Time: Close-up Shooting using Point & Shoots

Once again, please do not hesitate to leave any comments, corrections or suggestions that you may feel are worthy of sharing...

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For my latest photos, visit Flickr
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